Repairing Bunk Latch Handles on a Hybrid Trailer

Jul 27, 2011
Thomas Alan Gray

Completed Ultralight Hybrid Bunk Latch Repair - Photo © Thomas Alan Gray

Earlier low- to mid-end hybrid trailers (Jayco, Aerolite, Cub) use a T-handle latch to retain the bunk ends. Here's a fix for when the wood support weakens.

Our 1999 Aerolite F-16 was for the most part a well-built unit and we've enjoyed it thoroughly. Like any ultralight RV, it's a breeze to tow, and the expandable ends give it room for the family and for gear storage. With the ends up, it's a hardwall with room enough for a couple.

However, the T-handles that latch up the fore and rear bunk beds are fastened only in the 1/4" plywood of the outside shell. They are not anchored to the frame of the bunk. As time went on, the force on the latch twisted the wood, which required me to tighten up the latch to maintain the seal. This additional force eventually further distorted the wood, requiring more tightening, which cause further distortion...

Long before I ran out of adjustment room, I realized that further tightening was not the solution. I needed something stronger than the thin plywood of the door to hold against the stress of the bolt against the frame and seal.

Parts List for Hybrid Trailer Bunk Latch Repair

Materials

For each T-handle latch

3/32" Aluminum plate, 3" x 6" – probably 4" x 6" would have worked better, but I purchased a scrap of this at a metal dealer for a few dollars and it gave me the four little pieces. I later saw a 1-ft square piece of aluminum at Canadian Tire that would have worked and given four 6" x 6" squares.
Five of #8x1" round-head Robertson zinc-plated sheet metal screws.
Outdoor sealant (caulk) of your choice

Tools

Hacksaw or jigsaw with metal blade
1-1/16" Long-reach socket
Robertson screwdriver
Adjustable wrenches (8" and 6" okay) or pliers
Drill and bit set
Metal file

Removing the T-Latch from the Bunk Bed

Remove the two nuts and washers that hold the latch to the handle bolt as well as any plastic covers or seals. Use the 1-1/16" socket to remove the large nut that holds the handle down to the bunk (the latch itself fit nicely in the socket, and I used a wrench to turn it). Remove the latch and put all the parts into a ziploc bag. Don't lose the big retaining nut as it's an odd size.

Making the Reinforcing Plate

Cut the plates to size with hacksaw or jigsaw. Shape the plates with two rounded corners; file all edges smooth.
Measure the square body of the latch handle
Drill four holes in the plate to make a square the size of the handle.
File or cut out the square hole and shape it so the handle fits*
Drill holes as appropriate for the screws

* Each handle had a locating washer with a couple of flanges to dig into the wood and keep it from turning. These flanges had worn the hole in the wood oversize, and the handles would simply spin. I filed notches in the plate to accommodate the flanges (not illustrated).

Actually, since I have a Sherline desktop mill, I milled the shape of the plates and milled out the square hole in the center. It did a beautiful job but didn't save all that much time over doing it by hand.

Attaching the Reinforcing Plate to the Hybrid Trailer Bunk Door

Align the plate over the hole in the bunk door so that the handle will fit through both
Mark location of the screws.
Using a bit narrower than the thread on the screws, drill pilot holes. Two of these screws will go into the metal frame of the door.
Apply caulk to the back of the reinforcing plate.
Press the plate into place and fasten it down with the metal screws
Re-install the T-handle, reversing the steps for removal.
Check the handle for correct operation
Adjust the retaining latch for proper tension on the seal

These metal reinforcing plates, being anchored to the frame of the bunk door, provide a much more solid base for the T-handle latch used in early model expandable trailers.